Art of manufacturing turned shoes having molded counters



Sept. 29, 1-925. 1.5555039 F. E. TOOTHAKER ART OF MANUFACTURING TURNED SHOES HAVING MOLDED COUNTERS Fig. 5.

Filed Jan. 24. 1921 Patented Sept. 29, 1925.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

FRED n, TOOTHAKER, or SWAMPSCOT'I, MAssAci-IUsETTs, ASSIGNOR 'ro UNITED sHon MACHINERY CORPORATION, or EMERSON. NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION or NEW JERSEY.

ART OF MANUFACTURING TURNED HAVING MOLDED COUNTERS.

Application, filed. January 24, 1921. Serial No. 439,479.

To all whom it may concern.

Be it known that I, FRED E. TooTHAKnR, a citizen of the United States, residing at Swampscott, in the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain Improvements in the Art of Manufacturing Turned Shoes Having Molded Counters, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures.

This invention relates to the manufacture of shoes and is herein set forth in connection with the manufacture of a turned shoe having a molded counter.

Two methods of manufacturing turned shoes having molded counters are now in use, one exemplified in the patent to Helming No. 1,177,516 in which the counter with its attached strengthening or shape-retaining member is placed in the shoe and fastened to the sole thereof after the shoe has been removed from the first last and turned right side out, the other exemplified in the patents to Thissell, No. 1,302,994 and Connor No. 1,302,995 in which the counter with its attached shape-retaining member is placed 011 and fastened to the sole of the shoe while the shoe is wrong side out upon the first last. The present invention is restricted in no way to either of these methods, and is applicable to any method of making a turned shoe having a molded counter.

Members for strengthening or aiding in the retention of the shape of the molded counters are of various forms, those which are of suflicient extent to cover substantially the whole heel seat being known in the trade as tucks. In order to produce a properly shaped shoe it is essential that the assembled counter and strengthening member shall fit snugly about the rear portion of the second last whether that last be a right or a left. This can, of course, be accomplished by preparing the assembled counters and strengthening members in rights and lefts, but such a procedure requires the expenditure of considerably morethan twice the time and labor which would be required if there were provided an assembled counter and strengthening member which could b used for either right or left shoes.

Acco d g y, t e g neral obj ct f t e present, invention is to provide a counter and strengthening member adapted to be used for either right or left shoes, this result being accomplished by making a specially designed strengthening member which is a compromise between a right and a left, and attaching to such a member a molded counter having released ends.

In order to promote brevity and clear- .7 Fig. l is a plan ofa second last with an assembled counter and tuck in place thereon;

Fig. 2 is a plan of a portion of the insole pattern of the shoe on anenlarged scale;

Fig. 3 is a plan of the preliminary tuck pattern;

Fig. 4 is a plan showing in full and dotted lines both the preliminaryand the finished tuck pattern;

Fig. 5 is a perspective of a molded counter having released ends, and

Fig. 6 is a cross-section through a second last with an assembled counter and tuck on it in the locality of the heel breast line showing how the forward portion of the tuck and the released ends of the counter fit about the last. i

Referring first to Fig. 2, there is shown a portion of an insole pattern, which is the pattern of, the bottom of the last Across the insole pattern is a line 7 the location of which was obtained by placing the pattern on the last, placing upon the heel portion of the last over the pattern a molded counter of the proper size and marking the line 7 at the forward limit of extent of the counter. I

Two points 9 and 11 are now located to coincide with opposite points on the outer edge of the sewing rib of the sole of the shoe which is to be made, the distance from the point 9 t0 the point 11 being equal to the a portion of the preliminary tuck pattern is rnade by drawing two curved lines, one from 1 3 to 9, the other from 15 to 11 in eachcase using the curve of the outside edge (the left hand edge in Fig. 2) of the insole pattern just forwardly of the point 13 as a uide Having obtained the preliminary tuck pattern in this manner, a straight line 17 is drawn on a sheet of paper and the tuck laid upon it with line of thetuck forming a continuation of the straight line. This line 23 is drawn through the middle point 1 9 of the forward edge of the pattern and through a point 2L equidistant from the points 13 and 15. The line, it should be noted, does not divide the pattern into two exactly equal parts owing to the swing of the last from which the insole pattern was made, Two of theselines 23 are drawn, one on one side of the preliminary tuck pattern a d one On he Ot The preliminary pattern is then placed,

as has been indicated and as is shown in Fig. 4, withone of its lines 23 coinciding with-the straight line 17. The outline of the preliminary pattern is now marked. In Fig. & this'ontline comprises the full line 25 and the dotted line 27. The preliminary pattern is next turned over and its outline in that position marked. In Fig. 4 this outline comprises the full line 29 and the dotted line 31. The resulting figure bounded by the full lines 25, 29.,and 33 is the final tuck pattern, this final pattern being a compromisebetween a right and 'a left tuck.

Thetucks to be used in] manufacturing the particular shoe of which Fig. 2 is the insole pattern are now out out of leather board or other suitable material in accordance with the final tuck pattern, and each tuck is placed in molded counter 35 of the proper size, and fastened to. its inturned flange, for example by staples 37. This counter is of the type having so-calle d .reeassd nds; was, he a 9 is e insharply about the rear portion and about the side portions to form a corner 41 which extends to within a short distance, say threequartersof an inch, from the forward ends. At the forward ends, however, there is no sharp corner; instead, the flange joins the sides in curves. It will be understood that the corner al register s substantially with the edge of'the "tu ck43. This makes a comparatively rigid structure for the major portion of the counter and tuck thus assembled. The forward released ends of the counter and the forward portion of the tuck are, however, comparatively flexible so as to adapt their configuration to the shape of the particular last be it right or left to which the counter and tuck are applied.

In the description of the invention which has been given above the making of a pattern for a strengthening member from the insole pattern has been described. It should be understood, however, that parts of the shoe or patterns other than that of the insole may be used to work from in order to obtain the desired strengthening member pattern. For example, the sole pattern may be used. In such case, if the heel to .be attached is a leather one, an allowance for the extension of the edge will have to be made which will result in an outline substantially identical, so far as the rear portion which is used is concerned, with that of the insole pattern; or, if the shoe is to have a wood heel attached, the outline of the heel may be used as a starting point. In any case, however, the resultant finished pattern will bear the same relation to the insole pattern as does that one described in the present application. order to promote brevity, wherever reference is made in the appended claims to any part of the shoe or to any pattern, the insole pattern will be named, it being understood that the invention is intended to cover Vith this explanation, and in the use of any suitable part or pattern from which the desired strengthing member pat tern may be made.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent the United States is:

. 1. The methodof making an assembled counter and tuck for use in the manufacture of a turned shoe, which comprises preparing a. tuck so shaped when placed with the same side uppermost in both cases as to be suitable for. use with either a right or a left shoe, inserting the tuck in a molded counter, and fastening it to the flange thereof.

2] The method of making an assembled counter and tuck for use in the manufacture of a turned shoe, which comprises preparing a tuck which is so shaped when placed with the same side uppermost in both cases as to be suit-able for use with either a right or a left shoe, inserting the tuck in a molded counter having released ends, and fastening it to the flange thereof.

3. The method of making an assembled counter and tuck for use in the manufacture of a turned. shoe, which comprises preparing a tuck the rear portion of which from its widest locality to its rear end substantially registers in outline with the corresponding portion of the insole pattern of the shoe and the forward edge of which is of a width substantially equal to the distance from point on the outer edge of the sewing shoulder olrone side of the sole of the shoe in the locality which the forward end of the counter will occupy in the finished shoe to a sim ilar point on the outer edge of the sewing shoulder on the opposite side, and fastening to the tuck so prepared a molded counter haying released ends.

at. The method of making an assembled counter and tuck for use in the manufacture of a, turned shoe, which comprises preparing a tuck the rear portion of which from substantially its widest locality to its rear end substantially registers in outline with the corresponding portion of the insole pattern of the shoe and the forward portion of which tapers in width until its forward edge will extend across the sole of the shoe from a pointon the outer edge of the sewing shoulder on one side of the shoe to a point on the outer edge of the sewing shoulder on the opposite side of the shoe in the locality which the forward end of the counter will occupy in the finished shoe, insorting the tuck so prepared in a molded counter having released ends and fastening the tuck to the flange of the counter in the rear of said released ends.

5. As an article of manufacture for use in a turned shoe, a tuck the rear portion of which from substantially its widest locality to its rear end registers in outline with the corresponding portion of the insole pattern of the shoe, and the forward portion of which is narrower forwardly of said widest locality thanis the corresponding portion of the insole pattern, and a molded counter fastened by its flange to the tuck.

6. As an article of manufacture, a tuck and a molded counter fastened together, the rear portion of the tuck from substantially its widest portion to its rear end, registering substantially in outline with that of the cor-- responding portion of the insole pattern of the shoe and the forward portion being of a width substantially equal to the distance between opposite points on the outer edges of the sewing rib of the sole in the vicinity of the heel breast line, said counter having released ends.

T. The method of making an assembled molded counter and strengthening member for use in the manufacture of a turned shoe, which comprises preparing a strengthening member having an outline corresponding substantially in its rear portion to that of the crease at the junction of the sides and inturned flange of the counter and so shaped when placed with the same side uppermost in both cases as to be suitable for use with either a right of a left shoe, inserting the strengthening member in a molded counter, and fastening it to the flange thereof.

8. ldhe method of making an assembled counter and strengthening member for use in the manufacture of a turned shoe, whlch comprises preparing a strengthening member which is so shaped with respect to the insole pattern of the shoe as to be suitable for use with either a right or a left shoe when placed with the same side uppermost in both cases, inserting the strengthening member in a molded counter having released ends, and fastening it to the flange thereof.

9. The method of making an assembled counter and strengthening member for use in the manufacture of a turned shoe, which comprises preparing a strengthening member the rear portion of which from substantially its widest locality to its rear end substantially registers in outline with the corresponding portion of the insole pattern of the shoe and the forward portion of which is narrower than the corresponding portion of the insole pattern, and fastening to the strengthening memberso prepared a molded counter.

10. The method of making an assembled counter and strengthening member for use in the manufacture of a turned shoe, which comprises preparing a strengthening memher the rear portion of which from substantially its widest locality to its rear end substantially registers in outline with the corresponding portion of the insole pattern of the shoe and the forward portion of which is progressively narrower than the correspond ing portion of the insole pattern from said widest locality to substantially the forward end of the counter, and fastening to the strengthening member so prepared a molded counter having released ends.

11. The method of making an assembled counter and strengthening member for use in the manufacture of a turned shoe, which comprises preparing a strengthening memher the rear portion of which from its widest locality to its rear end substantially registers in outline with the corresponding portion of the insole pattern of the shoe and the width of which at the forward end of the counter is substantially equal to the distance from a point on the outer edge of the sewing shoulder on one side of the sole of the shoe in the locality in which the forward end of the counter will be applied to the sole to a similar point on the outer edge of the sewing shoulder on the opposite side, and fastening to the strengthening member so prepared a molded counter having released ends.

12. The method of making a strengthening member for use with a molded counter in the manufacture of either a right or left shoe, which comprises making a preliminary strengthening member pattern the rear of which registers substantially in outline with that of the correspondingportion. of the insole pattern, and the width of which in the locality of the forward end of the counter to which the member is to be attached is substantially equal to the distance between opposite points on the outer edges of the sewing rib of the sole in the locality in which the end of the counter will be applied to the sole, and from this preliminary patternmaking the final pattern.

13. The method of making a strengthening member pattern for use with a molded counter in the manufacture of either a right or a left shoe, which comprises making a preliminary pattern the rear of which registers substantially in outline with that of the corresponding portion of the insole pattern, and the width of which at the locality of the forward end of the counter to which the member is to be applied is substantially equal to the distance between opposite points on the outer edges of the sewing rib of the sole in the locality in which the forward end of the counter will be applied to the sole, drawing lines on both sides of the preliminary pattern, each passing through a point in the middle of a transverse line across the pattern in the locality of the end of the counter and a point equidistant from opposite points at the widest locality of the pattern, drawing a line on a plane surface, placing the preliminary pattern on the surface with the line on one side of the preliminary pattern registering with the line on the surface, outlining the preliminary pattern while in this position, turning the pre liminary pattern over and repeating the outling, and thereafter making a final pattern corresponding to the most separated portions of the outlining lines.

14. As an article of manufacture for use in a turned shoe, a strengthening member the rear portion of which from substantially its widest locality to its rear end registers in outline with the corresponding portion of the insole pattern of the shoe, and the forward portion of which is narrower forwardly of said widest locality than is the corresponding portion of the insole pattern, and a molded counter having released ends fastened by its flange to the strengthening member.

15. As an 1 article of manufacture, a strengthening member for use with amolded counter in the manufacture of a turned shoe, the width of the strengthening member in the locality of the forward end of the counter to which it is to be attached being substantially equal to the distance, between opposite points on the outer edges of the sewing rib in the locality in which the forward end of the counter will occupy in the finished shoe, the strengthening member as a whole being a compromise between a right and a left strengthening member and being adapted for use in the manufacture of either a right or a left shoe.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

FRED n. TOOTHAKER. 

